Dallas Voice (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 29, No. 6, Ed. 1 Friday, June 22, 2012 Page: 48 of 80
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CASTRO, From Page 46
forward as Los Angeles, or even Dallas — dress
for comfort rather than to impress. And that
means a lightweight jacket at all times: Air condi-
tioning is a mythical invention here, even in cars
and mansions, and the temperature evert in sum-
mer is brisk and cool. Even the gays dress like
they are in a summer resort town. It's more Key
West than West Hollywood ... surprising, since
the temp stays low. Still, on sunny days, Dolores
Park just south of The Castro looks like an RSVP
Cruise deck carpeted with shirtless men.
The Castro is, of course, the gay epicenter of
San Francisco, or even California, if not the
Western Hemisphere — there are more rain-
bows visible here than at a leprechaun conven-
tion. Gay boutiques like Phantom and Does
Your Mother Know sell eroticwear, sex toys and
porn; local businesses proudly tout camp names
like The Sausage Factory (a restaurant) and
Hand Job (a nail salon). It's a district best ex-
plored on your own, though Outfit, which sells
trendy, reasonably priced clubwear, is a good
place to start.
Bars pepper the neighborhood, of course, and
you can always find the specific atmosphere that
suits you, from the older crowd at Twin Peaks
(young locals call it the Glass Coffin, due to its
big windows and older-skewing crowd) to The
Midnight Sun; its Friday bear night is very pop-
ular, especially early with big men and good
happy hour prices jammed in... at least until
they move to 440, a more sports-and-leather
crowd, or Edge, which is hipster-nouveau. Toad
Hall offers a more low-key atmosphere than
most.
The other gayborhood, Folsom Street is far-
ther away, closer to the barrios of The Mission
and Valencia, where you might be lucky enough
to catch a street festival, and can certainly sam-
ple food from the taquerias or even Rosamunde
Sausage Grill, famed for its house-made
sausages.
The Castro basically abuts Haight-Ashbury to
the west and Market to the east; both have their
appeal. Haight was the center of hippie life in SF
during the '60s, and has maintained that vibe
despite more corporate additions like Ben &
Jerry's. You can shop vintage clothing stores and
record shops and roomy bookstores as well as
just people-watch: It's a sea of long-hairs and
stoners and latter-day hipsters, many of whom
seem to talk to themselves but are probably of-
fering to sell you something.
If you want to buy, go ahead. The Haight
backs up to Golden Gate Park from which wafts
a cloud of pop smoke from drop-outs who've
been in need of a bath since the Bush Adminis-
tration. If s a dodgy area unless you're specifi-
cally cruising for weed, and the edge of
"civilized" San Francisco. (You might hear locals
say, "I don't do the avenues," code for sticking
close to downtown/east side where the gaybor-
hood and tourist spots are concentrated; the av-
enues to the west are more residential, on either
side of the park.)
The other direction from The Castro is Market
Street, which still maintains a gay-adjacent qual-
ty with gay bars like The Lookout and eateries
like Sweet Inspiration Bakery. Keep walking,
FORGET IT JAKE | The gate to Chinatown is as
impressive as the shops along hilly Grant Avenue.
(Arnold Wayne Jones/Dallas Voice)
and you'll eventually encounter the heart of
downtown, including the gorgeous City Hall
where VI k and Mayor George Moscone were
assassinated (best viewed from United Nations
Plaza). Down a few blocks is lovely Westfield
Mall, a beautiful domed monument to con-
sumerism, with tons of high-end shops. (It's not
all alternative here — if you missed the Gaultier
exhibit while it was in Dallas, you can catch it
here until August.)
A few blocks away, you can stroll the rolling
streets of Chinatown, where main thoroughfare
Grand Avenue provides a spine from which to
explore curio shops or delicious (and cheap)
dim sum, like at the Grant Place restaurant
where a platter will set you back less than 10
bucks.
The Embarcadero is the bastard child of Seat-
tle and NYC, its wharves harkening to Pike
Place Market and the South Street Seaport, with
its trendy shops, coffeehouses and photo op-
friendly views, while the hilly streets and cool
weather are pure Pacific Northwest.
Fishermen's Wharf, which technically starts
around Pier 39 along the Embarcadero is a
tourist trap; if the phalanx of foreign families in
matching T-shirts doesn't clue you in, the pres-
ence of Bubba Gump Shrimp, liard Rock Cafe
and overpriced, undermixed cocktails from dull
chain restos with names like Wipeout should.
But on either side of this area are some worthy
stops.
Just to the southwest of the wharf is Gh
radelli Square, home of the famed chocolatier
(you get a free piece when you enter the shop).
48 dallasvoice.com
06.22.12
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Wright, John. Dallas Voice (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 29, No. 6, Ed. 1 Friday, June 22, 2012, newspaper, June 22, 2012; Dallas, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth308872/m1/48/: accessed April 27, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting UNT Libraries Special Collections.